15 Jan 2010

The Cut

Earlier this week the British Fashion Council (BFC) and the hallowed bible that is Vogue attempted to banish any January blues owing to post Christmas paunch and scary sales-bruising by announcing the shortlist for the first ever BFC / Vogue Designer Fashion Fund.

Another scheme from the fashion powers that be to help Brit design talent take over the world, the shortlist is hot diggity damn impressive thanks to the fact that anyone who wants to even try and win the money must have an established business with UK and international stockists and support from key media, both UK and internationally. So, drum roll please...

The list includes Angel Jackson, Christopher Kane, Clements Ribeiro, E.Tautz, Erdem, Marios Schwab, Nicholas Kirkwood and Richard Nicoll. Obviously some of these names are very familiar but, just for larks, lets do a Top of the Pops style run down of what I expect to be the Style Cramp faves.

In at number one is
Christopher Kane:

All round Scottish fashion genius who pretty much took over Topshop by making everyone emblazon gorillas and crocodiles across their chests whilst being proper mates with high priestess of preposterously sexy, tight dresses and tan, Donatella Versace. Christopher is a very special guy as he cleverly takes unexpected materials and makes them uber cool with off centre shapes and styling, consistently sending pared down models down the catwalk in deconstructed yet achingly beautiful designs. The autumn/winter collection he produced for 2009 made velvet, chiffon and pretty shades of metallic cool, and his spring/summer 2010 offering did the unthinkable by drawing fashionistas to pastel gingham like a moth to a flame, using well placed slits to sex up the table cloth pattern. We at style cramp also love him as he designed a rather fetching poncho that Vanity got very overexcited about wearing in festival season!*

(Note from Vanity: soz Kane, but it’s crap; fell apart pretty much after first festival wear, and numerous boys commented on how much the squiggly line design on the front made me look like I had a ‘massive hairy muff’ emblazoned on my front.)

Taking up the second position in my mind is one of the genuine loves of my life at the moment (a girl has to keep her options open), the exquisite

Erdem is a Canadian chap based in Britain who has more than made up for his country's introduction of Celine Dion to the world. Aside from the fact that the man himself wears very nice glasses, his dreamy designs make my heart go all of a flutter with romantic florals in vibrant colours that lift traditional prints to seductive and glamorous status. I honestly think that I need ALL of his spring/summer designs in my world! Erdem, like Christopher Kane, is on the button when it comes to cut, adding interest to designs that could be worn anywhere, any time and yet always feel anything but ordinary due to pretty prints, gorgeous fabrics and interesting detailing. An Erdem dress
will be mine, oh yes!

Hysteria inducing footwear makes it way onto the BFC / Vogue Designer Fashion Fund courtesy of
Nicholas Kirkwood, who scoops my third position as a seemingly mild mannered fellow that just happens to design very sexy shoes that have attracted the attention of such fashion icons as Grace Jones:

The well crafted designs are super high structures in innovative fabric choices including rubberised suede or laser cut mirrored leather, often inspired by architecture and incorporating darkly glamorous details such as enormous conical heels or multiple straps for a dominatrix edge. These shoes are stunning, more akin to art than a simple strappy sandle, and if I could afford an original pair rather than the high street copies that have popped up everywhere from Office to River Island, Topshop and New Look, I would practice walking in them all the live long day to do them justice! I shall be keeping my eyes peeled for which of these designers from the full shortlist is crowned the winner of the cash, but until then, I think I will just continue on my quest for Erdem-alike dresses, so please keep your fingers crossed for me!

Apollonia Gish x

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